The Realstic Ant, history
I developed this pattern from the idea that I got from one of those little ant kits that had a block of etha-foam that was pre punched with cylinders for making ant bodies. I found that the cylinders in the kit were not of the correct diameter and experimented with a rotary leather hole punch. I then obtained a block of ethafoam to create cylinders of that are 5/32 x ½ inches for this pattern. The foam is available from many fly-tying sources under the name Fly Foam. Use a ballpoint refill to push the plugs out of the block. Pulling them stretches the foam. This fly is best fished dry, and was developed for the gin clear water of the catch and release stretch of the Swift River in Ma. (I use Wilson's fly float and squeeze the ant body between my fingers to saturate the foam with floatant.) The trout in this water have all received doctorate degrees in fly fishing and have each been caught and released countless times by some really expert fishermen. These trout have been known to count the wraps on a whip finish to see if they contained the correct number (5).

When my ant is fished as a dry, I am loath to apply the cement that will make this fly indestructible, as the added weight affects flotation. But if you don't mind the added weight, it also fishes well wet, and will be accompanied by many rapid fish flashes if allowed to sink. I have watched a brown trout follow this ant for ten yards as it floated in the film of the Swift. While he pursued the floating fly he examined circled around it for 300 degrees, never more than 3 inches away. After it finally passed inspection, he casually sipped in the fly, only to discover to his dismay, that he had been once again duped! At the set of the hook, he exploded on the surface peeling off many yards of line, upsetting the pool and several other fishermen who were convinced that I must be using bait.

The Recipe for the Realistic Ant.

Hook… Tiemco #102y size 19 this special hook was developed as a caddis fly hook. It has a wide gap and is down eye, 1x fine and black which helps to hide it in this pattern. It is available from Feather Craft.
Thread… Danville's Flymaster 60 black
Body… 5/32 X ½ inch cylinder of Black ethafoam
Legs… heavy monocord knotted for joints.

Place the hook in the vise and wrap the thread to the middle of the bend of the hook.

Cut a 45-degree angle at the base of the foam cylinder (to reduce bulk) and tie in this end to the hook cylinder extending rearward.

Now wrap the thread forward to the middle of the straight part of the hook and bend the cylinder of foam forward and wrap the thread over the foam and make a few tight wraps to form the abdomen of the ant.

Wrap the thread forward a few turns under the foam then wrap over the foam to form the thorax and head of the ant.

Wind the thread back toward the rear of the hook to the beginning of the thorax at the first segment.

Now make a pair of legs by making two over hand knots approx 3/32 apart in a piece of heavy monocord about 3 or 4 inches in length with the natural curl left. Use the natural curl of the mono cord to help form the loops for this simplest of knots. A small pair of right angle tweezers is invaluable for this task. Do not lock the knots too tightly as it will straighten the monocord instead of the producing the intended right angle bend. You will end up with a tight U of monocord with a knot at the two corners.

Trim this pair of legs to about ¾ inch and tie them in at the front of the abdomen at the first segment. Cross tie to hold them in place and use the tweezers to adjust the position.

Wrap the thread forward to the front segment and tie in the front pair. Bring the pair of legs together and trim to the correct length, approximately one body length. Don't worry if they don't sit perfectly, it won't really matter when fishing.